TOM FORD Base / Fit Overview
The Ultimate Guide – 2018 update
To help you find the perfect Tom Ford suit, we made a comprehensive overview of all Tom Ford base and fits, to make your life easier.
Buying the perfect suit isn’t easy as there are many important things to keep in mind. Perhaps the most important of all: the fit. As no two people are exactly alike, getting the fit just right can be a bit of a challenge. Buying your suite online can further complicate matters as you won’t know how the suit will fit until you receive it. Alterations are always possible but they can only get you so far.
To make matters more complicated, Tom Ford suits offers many different fits, which lack consistency through the years.
In 2007, Tom Ford started with two different bases:
- Tom Ford Base A (also called the Windsor cut) which has a classic look, with wide lapel, broad shoulders and a medium suppressed waist
- Tom Ford Base B (also called the Regency cut) which was a little more modern with medium lapel, medium shoulder and a very suppressed waist.
Blazers, sport coats and suits can be found in all cuts. Tuxedos are made in the Windsor and O’Connor cut. Outerwear like jackets or leather coats do not come in different cuts. They can fit very slim or pretty wide: it very important to check the actual product measurements.
From 2008 until 2014, the different cuts were called bases. From 2014 onward, Tom Ford changed to fit. It can be quite confusing at first which is why we came up with the following overview:
Base A / Fit A Windsor – Classic cut, wider lapel, wider shoulder, regular waist and medium fitted trousers
Base B / Fit B Regency – Slimmer cut, medium lapel, medium shoulder, suppressed waist and fitted trousers
Base C / Fit C Buckingham – Slimmer cut, big lapels, wider shoulder, regular waist and medium fitted trousers
Base E / Fit E Buckley – Shorter and slimmer cut, narrow shoulder, very fitted waist and trousers (partially lined).
Base D / Fit D Spencer – Slimmer cut, wider lapel, medium shoulder, suppressed waist and fitted trousers
Base F / Fit F Falconer – Slimmer cut, straight shoulder, smaller lapels, suppressed waist and 3 buttons on the sleeve.
Base L / Fit L Mountbatten – Slimmer cut, straight shoulder, smaller notched lapels, suppressed waist and fitted trousers.
Base M / Fit M (no name available) – Slimmer cut, straight shoulder, medium lapels, very suppressed waist and 3 buttons on the sleeve.
Base S /Fit S O’Connor – Slimmer cut, smaller lapels, narrow shoulder, suppressed waist, fitted trousers and single vented.
Base Y / Fit Y O’Connor – Slimmer cut, smaller lapels, narrow shoulder, suppressed waist, fitted trousers and dual vented
Base Z / Fit Z Alexander – Slimmer cut, medium lapel, medium shoulder and gauntlet cuffs/
Base V / Fit V Buckley – Shorter and slimmer cut, narrow shoulder, very fitted waist and trousers (partially lined).
Base T / Fit T Wetherby – Wider cut, 30’s inspired. Wide lapel, wider shoulder and wide trousers.
Base W / Fit W O’Connor – Slimmer cut, smaller lapels, narrow shoulder, suppressed waist and fitted trousers (partially / unlined version).
Base Shelton / Fit Shelton – Classic cut, wider lapel, wider shoulder, regular waist and fitted trousers.
In total there are 12 different main cuts:
(Base A / Fit A)
The classic Tom Ford cut. Although it’s described as a classic cut it is actually a modern cut with a suspended waist. The Lapels are wide and the trousers do fit medium. The shoulders are quite broad which gives the wearer a strong silhouette. It’s double vented.
(Base B / Fit B)
The slimmer Tom Ford cut. The lapels are medium wide. The shoulder is medium shaped and the waist is very suppressed. The trousers are very slim. The Regency cut is available as both single and double vented.
(Base C / Fit C)
The Base C cut has only be available in the first couple of years as Ready to Wear Tom Ford collection in the London and Milan flag ship stores. The Base C is close to the Wetherby cut so it has huge lapels and a broad firm shoulder. The difference are the peaked lapels as an option where the Wetherby has always notched lapels, it’s single vented and the trousers are medium fitted.
(Base D / Fit D)
A slim Tom Ford cut. The lapels are wide. The shoulder is medium shaped and the waist is very suppressed. The trousers are very slim. The Spencer cut is available as both single and double vented.
(Base E / Fit E)
(Base V / Fit V)
The Buckley is a short and slimmer Tom Ford cut. The lapels are medium shaped and it has an narrow shoulder. The waist and trousers are very fitted. The jackets are partial lined. The Difference between E and V (sometimes on tags as Basic Base V Nuova) is based on production period. The E is the cuccessor and was introducted in Spring / Summer 2016.
(Base F / Fit F)
The Falconer is named afther George Falconer, themain character of Tom Ford’s first film A Single Man and it was the first slim lapel jacket made for the Tom Ford brand. It is a slimmer and more fashionable Tom Ford cut. The shoulder is straight and it has smaller lapels, a suppressed waist, three buttons on sleeve instead of five and it is single vented. The trousers are slim. The jackets lacks the ticket pocket which all other flap pocket Tom Ford suits do have.
(Base L / Fit L)
The Mountbatten cus has only be available in Fall Winter 2010 collection. It is a slimmer and more fashionable Tom Ford cut. The shoulder is straight and it has smaller notched lapels, a suppressed waist and it is single vented. The trousers are slim.
Base M / Fit M (No name available)
(Base M / Fit M)
Very rare cut. It is a slimmer and more fashionable Tom Ford cut. The shoulder is straight and it medium peaked lapel shaped like the O’Connor but a little but wider, a very suppressed waist and it is single vented.
(Base S / Fit S)
(Base Y / Fit Y)
(Base W / Fit W)
The O’Connor cut is a very slim Tom Ford cut like the Regency but with a very small lapel. The shoulders are narrow and the waist is very suppressed. The trousers are very slim. Base S / Fit S is the lined version with a single vent, Base Y / Fit Y is the lined version with a double vent and Base W / Fit W is the partial and unlined version with a single vent.
(Base Z / Fit Z)
It’s a slimmer Tom Ford cut with a medium lapel wide, medium shoulder and a regular suppressed waist. The trousers fit medium. The unique thing about the Alexander cut are the gauntlet (turn back) cuffs. The gauntlet cuff, also called a turn back cuff, is a cuff that can be turned from the end of the sleeve to approximately the first button. Originally an Edwardian detail, it saw a return to popularity in the 50’s and 60’s. It’s mostly decorative but if done right, it can add some flair to a jacket or overcoat. They also have a more practical use: if the gauntlet cuff is worn out, it can be removed to reveal a brand new and unworn sleeve edge under the cuff.
(Base T / Fit T)
The Wetherby is the 30’s inspired Tom Ford cut. It is quiet unique and it not available anymore as Ready To Wear. It is still possible to order one in the Made To Measure program. It has the widest lapels Tom Ford offers. It has a wider cut with broad shoulders. The trousers are very wide as well. Base T is most often known as Wetherby, but it also refers to the Snowdon fit from Spring 2011. The characteristics of Snowdon vs Wetherby were much wider and stronger shoulders on the Snowdon jackets with a light rope, whereas the Wetherby jackets had a heavier rope but the shoulders were more traditional.
(No Base / Fit mentioned on the label)
The Shelton is the newest Tom Ford cut and based on the Windsor with a modern cut. The jackets have the same wide lapels and the fit is slightly slimmer. The difference is in the shoulder: the Shelton has a more natural shoulder with less padding compared to the Windsor. Also where the Windsor trousers have a classic cut and fit quite wide is the Shelton modern and tapered. The Shelton suit is also single vented.
Every season, these bases / fits are altered a little bit. This means that a Fit A from 2009 will not fit the same as one from 2018. It’s essential that you check the measurements against your own – preferably best fitting – suit.
If you have any questions regarding the bases and fits, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us.
You will find our complete list of Tom Ford suits here.