In the world of vintage Rolex, few pieces encapsulate late 1980s opulence and technical craftsmanship quite like the Tridor Lady-Datejust. This watch isn’t just a study in precision timekeeping – it’s a bold expression of elegance, rarity, and goldsmithing at its finest. The name Tridor refers to Rolex’s patented fusion of three colours of gold: yellow, white, and rose. Unlike typical bi-metal executions, Tridor is in a league of its own. The central bracelet links, made from rose and yellow gold bonded to a white gold core, shimmer with a subtle, nuanced contrast. The rest of the case and bracelet are forged in solid 18k white gold, with the bezel that holds the brillant-cut diamonds, forged from 18k yellow gold – giving the watch both substance and an amazing backdrop for the mixed-gold detailing to shine. The result is unmistakably Rolex: luxurious, technically sophisticated, and wholly unique in appearance. While two-tone watches were already a staple in the Rolex lineup during the 1980s, Tridor was the brand’s rare and quietly confident answer to buyers seeking something more elevated – and certainly more exclusive.

This reference 69139 takes its already rich construction a step further, with the factory-set diamond bezel and the original factory diamond ‘Jubilee’ dial – featuring a subtle repeating Rolex logo across the dial’s surface. On this piece, the Jubilee pattern glimmers in a silver tone, serving as the canvas for 10 brilliant-cut diamonds. The bezel features 32 factory-set brilliant-cut diamonds, each perfectly aligned within the yellow gold setting – not too ostentatious, but undoubtedly present. Rolex didn’t take gemstone setting lightly, and each diamond used met strict internal criteria that rivaled the top tiers of the jewelry industry – Only the very best was good enough! This particular watch dates to 1989, a period of subtle but meaningful transition in Rolex’s manufacturing approach. Still firmly in the pre-modern era, these watches were crafted with more hand-finishing, and less automation than what followed in the 1990s and beyond. It was also the tail end of the “high luxury” period of the 1980s, when watches were bold, jewellery-like, and proudly expressive – a sentiment embodied perfectly by this Tridor Lady-Datejust.

Today, Tridor Rolex watches are incredibly uncommon, especially in Lady-Datejust configuration with both factory diamond bezel and dial – Finding a full Tridor piece with this level of original embellishment is not just rare, it’s nearly impossible in today’s market. These watches were always niche and limited in production, and many that surfaced have had aftermarket alterations, making a 100% original example – like the one we’re offering here – even more desirable for the aficionado with an eye for authenticity and vintage finesse. As always, she was fully serviced and will be delivered with our extensive two years of mechanical warranty.

reference: 69139
case number: L77XXXX
year of production: 1989
case diameter: 26mm
movement: self-winding, Rolex caliber 2135
box and papers: no

Price: € 13.950,-