The Ultimate TOM FORD Base / Fit Guide
To help you find the perfect Tom Ford suit, we’ve made a comprehensive overview of bases and fits, to make your life easier.
Buying the perfect suit isn’t easy as there are many important things to keep in mind. Perhaps the most important of all: the fit. As no two people are exactly alike, getting the fit just right can be a bit of a challenge. Buying your suite online can further complicate matters as you won’t know how the suit will fit until you receive it. Alterations are always possible but they can only get you so far. To make matters more complicated, Tom Ford suits has many different fits, which lack consistency through the years.
In 2008, Tom Ford started with two different bases:
- Base A (also called the Windsor cut) which has a classic look, with wide lapel, broad shoulders and a medium suppressed waist
- Base B (also called the Regency cut) which was a little more modern with medium lapel, medium shoulder and a very suppressed waist.
From 2008 until 2014, the different cuts were called bases. From 2015 onward, these were called fit. It can be quite confusing at first which is why we came up with the following overview:
Base A / Fit A Windsor – Classic cut, wider lapel, wider shoulder, regular waist and medium fitted trousers
Base B / Fit B Regency – Slimmer cut, medium lapel, medium shoulder, suppressed waist and fitted trousers
Base D / Fit D Spencer – Slimmer cut, wider lapel, medium shoulder, suppressed waist and fitted trousers
Base F / Fit F Falconer – Slimmer cut, straight shoulder, smaller lapels, suppressed waist and 3 buttons on the sleeve.
Base S /Fit S O’Connor – Slimmer cut, smaller lapels, narrow shoulder, suppressed waist, fitted trousers and single vented.
Base Y / Fit Y O’Connor – Slimmer cut, smaller lapels, narrow shoulder, suppressed waist, fitted trousers and dual vented
Base Z / Fit Z Alexander – Slimmer cut, medium lapel, medium shoulder and gauntlet cuffs/
Base V / Fit V Buckley – Shorter and slimmer cut, narrow shoulder, medium waist and fitted trousers.
Base T / Fit T Wetherby – Wider cut, 30’s inspired. Wide lapel, wider shoulder and wide trousers.
Base W / Fit W O’Connor – Slimmer cut, smaller lapels, narrow shoulder, suppressed waist and fitted trousers (partially / unlined version).
Base Shelton / Fit Shelton – Classic cut, wider lapel, wider shoulder, regular waist and fitted trousers.
In total there are 9 different main cuts:
(Base A / Fit A)
The classic Tom Ford cut. Although it’s described as a classic cut it is actually a modern cut with a suspended waist. The Lapels are wide and the trousers do fit medium. The shoulders are quite broad which gives the wearer a strong silhouette. It’s double vented.
(Base B / Fit B)
The slimmer Tom Ford cut. The lapels are medium wide. The shoulder is medium shaped and the waist is very suppressed. The trousers are very slim. The Regency cut is available as both single and double vented.
(Base D / Fit D)
A slim Tom Ford cut. The lapels are wide. The shoulder is medium shaped and the waist is very suppressed. The trousers are very slim. The Spencer cut is available as both single and double vented.
(Base F / Fit F)
A slimmer and more fashionable cut. The shoulder is straight and it has smaller lapels, a suppressed waist, three buttons on sleeve instead of five and it is single vented. The trousers are slim.
(Base S / Fit S)
(Base Y / Fit Y)
(Base W / Fit W)
The O’Connor cut is a very slim cut like the Regency but with a very small lapel. The shoulders are narrow and the waist is very suppressed. The trousers are very slim. Base S / Fit S is the lined version with a single vent, Base Y / Fit Y is the lined version with a double vent and Base W / Fit W is the partial and unlined version with a single vent.
(Base Z / Fit Z)
It’s a slimmer cut with a medium lapel wide, medium shoulder and a regular suppressed waist. The trousers fit medium. The unique thing about the Alexander cut are the gauntlet (turn back) cuffs. The gauntlet cuff, also called a turn back cuff, is a cuff that can be turned from the end of the sleeve to approximately the first button. Originally an Edwardian detail, it saw a return to popularity in the 50’s and 60’s. It’s mostly decorative but if done right, it can add some flair to a jacket or overcoat. They also have a more practical use: if the gauntlet cuff is worn out, it can be removed to reveal a brand new and unworn sleeve edge under the cuff.
(Base V / Fit V)
The Buckley is a short and slimmer cut. The lapels are medium shaped and it has an narrow shoulder. The waist and trousers are medium fitted.
(Base T / Fit T)
The Wetherby is the 30’s inspired fit. It is quiet unique and it not available anymore as Ready To Wear. It is still possible to order one in the Made To Measure program. It has the widest lapels Tom Ford offers. It has a wider cut with broad shoulders. The trousers are very wide as well.
(No Base / Fit mentioned on the label)
The Shelton is based on the Windsor. The jackets have the same wide lapels and the fit is identical. The difference is in the shoulder: the Shelton has a more natural shoulder with less padding compared to the Windsor. Also where the Windsor trousers are classic cutted and quite wide is the Shelton modern and tapered. The Shelton suit is also single vented.
Every season, these bases / fits are altered a little. This means that a Fit A from 2009 won’t fit the same as one from 2016. It’s essential that you check the measurements against your own – preferably best fitting – suit.
If you have any questions regarding the bases and fits, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us.
You will find our complete list of Tom Ford suits here.